A public bathhouse in Iga City, Mie Prefecture, where the main building and stone gate built in 1926 (Taisho 15 - Showa 1) are registered as a Tangible Cultural Property of Japan."Ichinoyu" is a "living cultural asset" that continues to be cherished by local residents and public bathhouse enthusiasts even after 100 years of its birth.

A long-established public bathhouse had faced some change in July 2023 and has begun a new chapter in its history. We had the opportunity to speak with Shuji Nakamori, the predecessor, and Teruya Ishii of Yutonamisha, the company that took over the public bath.

A bathroom with a mix of retro and modern

Ichinoyu, a wooden palace-style building with a magnificent karahafu (Chinese gable), was originally opened as "Kusatsu-yu" in 1926 (Taisho 15 - Showa 1). In 1948, Mr. Naokichi Nakamori purchased this Kusatsu-yu. Two years later, he renamed it "Ichinoyu" and began operating it.

Ichinoyu has continued to operate to this day, undergoing appropriate renovations. In 2013, it was registered as a national registered tangible cultural property. The dressing room is filled with items reminiscent of the Showa era, such as massage chairs, making it feel like a museum.

At the entrance to the bathhouse, you can see decorations such as terracotta and arches, giving the Western atmosphere.

The tile painting of Mt. Fuji was newly installed by the third generation, Hideharu Nakamori.

The bathroom has a very simple structure, with a white bath, a bubble bath, and a cold bath, making it a true public bath. I get the impression that new designs have been incorporated throughout while maintaining the Showa retro image. The taste of Hideharu Nakamori, the third generation owner who took over the bathhouse in 2008, shines through.

There are many symbols in the bathroom, such as floral-patterned tiles and a lion-shaped water spout, giving you a sense of art.

The quality of the water was good, and as I went through the different temperature baths, such as hot water, lukewarm water, and cold water, I started to feel comfortable, and before I knew it, I was enjoying a long bath.

Yutonamisha
A company took over the public bath

Koya Ishii of Yutonamisha stirs medicinal water. Originally served at "Sauna no Umeyu"

The person who inherited this public bath in 2023 is Koya Ishii of Yutonamisha.

Yutonamisha is a company known for its business of inheriting public baths without successors, with the motto of ”not erasing public baths from Japan.” They operate eight public bathhouses, including Sauna no Umeyu in Kyoto City (as of November 2023). However, the circumstances that led to Ichinoyu being inherited seem to be a little different from other public baths.

"In the past, Yutonamisha would approach a public bathhouse that was going out of business and ask the owner to take over the business. In the case of Ichinoyu, however, the owner of the bathhouse said, 'I still have the ability to continue, but I want to do something else'. On July 1, 2023, the baton will be passed on without a break.

Mr. Ishii is from Suzuka City, Mie Prefecture. While attending university in Kyoto, he fell in love with public baths and visited many different ones. After working for a textile-related company, he joined Yutonamisha. He returned to my hometown of Mie Prefecture and became the manager of a long-established public bathhouse.

"Ichinoyu Plus" stands next to Ichinoyu and has a retro atmosphere.

Mr. Ishii is also a young and energetic man, and has been working energetically to revive the wood-burning fire that has not been done at Ichinoyu for some time. He also hopes to make use of "Ichinoyu Plus," which was established next to Ichinoyu to the east.

"Ichinoyu Plus is a building that used to be a coffee shop. Currently, we hold various events such as opening restaurants mainly on weekends. I hope to actively use this building and make it a space where people can gather," he said of his vision.

What is the “wonderland” that Ichinoyu's predecessor envisions?

Hideharu Nakamori, the previous owner of Ichinoyu. On the second floor of “Machiya-gurashi Kototoko” which opened in 2022.

Like "Ichinoyu Plus," the quaint building across the street from Ichinoyu is of interest. In fact, this old private house is "Machiya-gurashi Kototoko," an accommodation facility run by Shuji Nakamori, the third generation owner of Ichinoyu.

"I have always had a desire to make this whole neighborhood more attractive than just 'a single retro public bathhouse. The whole area around the bathhouse has a slightly mysterious atmosphere, and is an exciting place for both adults and children. If I had to call it that, I would say it's a 'wonderland'" says Nakamori.

Renovated from a 100-year-old house, this accommodation is limited to one couple per day, and guests can take a bath at Ichinoyu.

"This building and Ichinoyu Plus used to be vacant, but it would be sad to see them left as they are or torn down to make way for a vacant lot. We are steadily renovating these buildings to bring excitement to the people who visit this neighborhood," he continues.

"Kotokoto Komichi" is a 30-meter-long street lined with Ichinoyu, Ichinoyu Plus, Lisu Italian Restaurant, Udon-dokoro Kokonoe, and Machiya-gurashi Kototoko.

Mr. Nakamori and his friends come up with ideas from time to time and work hard to create a bustling 30-meter street lined with Ichinoyu, Ichinoyu Plus, Machiya-gurashi Kototoko, and other shops. He is giving shape to his desire to "deliver excitement".

Ichinoyu and Ichinoyu Plus as seen from the second floor of "Machiya-gurashi Kototoko" 

The author was curious as to why he entrusted the management to Yutonamisha, even though his desire to run a public bath had not waned.

"Rather than saying, 'I'll leave it to you,' it's more like, 'We're heading in the same direction.' They're really interested in the 'Ichinoyu Wonderland Project,' and they're cooperating with us." Mr. Nakamori continues as follows.

"I also think that this will be a model for preserving public baths. There are many managers who feel that public baths alone cannot survive, or that family businesses are at their limits. I think one way to do this is to leave it to young companies."

Ichinoyu at night illuminated by neon lights. It has a “wonderland” atmosphere to it.

"From now on, I would like to take a step back and be involved in the revitalization of the community. That is why I feel that I was able to entrust Yutonamisha and Mr. Ishii to them at the right time," Mr. Nakamori concluded.

Mr. Ishii and his predecessor Mr. Nakamori will continue to protect the public bath, which has been designated as a cultural property. We have just started moving forward together in pursuit of the ideal "Ichinoyu Wonderland."