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MEALS & ROTTI by PAHANA(henceforth "PAHANA") is a Sri Lankan restaurant located in Showa Ward, Nagoya City. It is a 5-minute walk from the Gokiso and Fukiage subway stations, respectively, and is located along the main street.
We asked Mr. Manjula from Sri Lanka, the owner of Pahana, about the characteristics of Sri Lankan cuisine.
Sri Lankan "Set meal shop"
Commitment to organic vegetables
Pahana originally had a store in Kanayama, but it closed in February 2020 because it had a concept of "bar" and it became difficult due to the COVID-19. It opened Gokiso store in September 2020, thinking that a "set meal restaurant" would be more suitable for the current times than a bar.
Manjula-san:"The name of the restaurant "Meals" is a set meal, and Roti is a baked bread that is generally familiar in Sri Lanka. I wanted to make it a Sri Lankan set meal style, so I named the restaurant 'Meals & Roti'. 'Spice dishes.' With an image like a cafeteria, lunch and dinner are the same price."
Eighty percent of the vegetables used at Pahana are organic vegetables purchased directly from contract farmers. The flour used for roti also comes from their fields, and the bread is naturally fermented without yeast or baking powder. Pahana's dishes are popular for being additive-free, seasoning-free, and vegan, and 90% of their customers are Japanese.
They also request contract farmers to produce vegetables such as curry leaves and turmeric, which are rare in Japan. The total number of vegetables they purchase from farmers is about 30 kinds. Mr. Manjula explains the reason for purchasing organic vegetables.
Manjula-san:"I am from the countryside of Sri Lanka, and although I have worked in luxury hotels, the simple food at my parents' house was the best. I want to serve natural, wholesome food to my Japanese customers without adding unnecessary ingredients. Using organic vegetables and not using chemical seasonings are natural choices for me."
Sri Lankan food
It was not accepted at first
Manjula-san came to Japan in 2002 after meeting and marrying a Japanese woman in Sri Lanka. Having worked as a chef in Sri Lanka, Mr. Manjula wanted to open his own restaurant and started his own restaurant in Inazawa City in 2004.
Manjula-san :"I first served Meals, but the customers didn't accept it at all. At that time, there were not many restaurants that served spiced curries and authentic local cuisine like they do now. So I had no choice but to serve curry and naan just like the others at first. I wrote the name "Authentic Sri Lankan Cuisine" on the signboard, but it didn't work at all, so I changed it to 'Indian and Sri Lankan Cuisine' in the middle of the year, and customers started coming to us."
It is said that it was around 2010 that he was able to serve dishes in the current style after repeating trial and error according to the times and customers.
What is Sri Lankan cuisine?
Although the number of restaurants serving authentic curry is increasing, "Sri Lankan cuisine" is still unfamiliar to many. What exactly is Sri Lankan cuisine?
Manjula-san: “Japanese cuisine uses soy sauce, dashi, and mirin. I hope you can think of Sri Lankan cuisine as an alternative to spices. Sri Lankan dishes also eats dishes made with spices with rice. We eat a well-balanced meal of leafy vegetables, potato-based side dishes, sour foods, and soups.”
Spices bring out the flavor and texture of the ingredients. It is made with only ingredients and spices without adding flour or paste to make it thicker. At Pahana, they purchase spices made in Manjula-san's parents' home and blend them at the store.
Manjula-san: "The way to eat Sri Lankan food is to eat each side dish separately at first and enjoy its taste. Then, in the middle of the meal, you choose two or so of your favorite dishes and mix them together, and finally you eat them all mixed together. The flavors change until the very end, and I never get tired of eating it. The accompanying papadang (thin cracker-like pieces) serve as an appetizer with their crispy texture. You can either crush them up and sprinkle them on first, or just nibble on them as you go."
Pahana's recommended menu
"Homemade plate"
This plate is rich in variety, with three kinds of curry, four kinds of side dishes, basmati rice (long, thin rice), wade (a kind of donut on top), papadang, salad, and coconut chatni. The vegetables used vary depending on the season and the day, and the recipes are not set in stone, but are made flexibly according to the ingredients.
Manjula-san: "Today's main dish is mutton curry, but we also purchase game meat from contracted farmers. Until yesterday, we used venison. Other than game meat, we use halal meat (meat processed according to Islam's teachings) too."
It's a rich curry with a nice punch that doesn't have the smell of mutton and the chunky meat.
From the right, stir-fried soybean meat, dal (bean) curry, and okra coconut curry. The okra and soybean curry have a gentle taste, and the soybean meat stir-fry has a spiciness of spices. It's a solid seasoning, and there's a punch in taste!
From right to left: salad, potato side dish, and fried kale. We also use kale and broccoli leaves from the farmer. The crunchiness of the leaves remains, while the spices can be tasted, and they are delicious on their own or mixed with other things!
Recommended side menu "Wade and Chai"
"Wade" on the homemade plate. A side dish doughnut made from fermented urad bean paste and spices. It has a fluffy texture and a rustic taste with a strong bean flavor.
The other is a wade (left) made with chickpeas, which are more spicy and have a crunchy texture. These wade can be added to the dish for an additional 250 yen.
Pahana's chai is popular because it uses organic soy milk instead of cow's milk and is suitable for vegans. It is common in Sri Lanka to use soy milk.
Sri Lankan tea leaves with ginger, cardamom, clove, and cinnamon. Brown sugar is added to make it easier to drink in order to eliminate the bean smell of the soy milk. The gently sweet chai of soy milk with spices was something I have never tasted at any other restaurant. When you come to Pahana, be sure to ask for it with your food.
Pahana has recently started a special menu for Wednesday nights only. We are offering more unique Sri Lankan dishes that are not served on the regular menu.
Manjula-san: "I felt that both the customers and the chefs were lacking energy because of the COVID-19. So I wanted to do something that everyone could enjoy. The customers can enjoy something different, and the chefs can be motivated by creating new dishes. I hope everyone will be energized."
Manjula-san's personality, which is always thinking of others, has attracted regular customers to Pahana, and the restaurant is loved by the community. Come to Pahana for a taste of authentic Sri Lankan cuisine in a warm atmosphere.